Quick Review: Cheap Unbranded 4-port USB 3.0 Hub from eBay

Compared to USB 2.0, USB 3.0 is a miracle long overdue. USB 3.0 ups the physical layer rate from the 480Mbit/s to a more reasonable 5Gbit/s – and is on its way to 10Gbit/s, while alleviating shortcomings in power delivery by upping the current limit from 0.5A to 0.9A without the battery charging/supercharging extension. In order to do all of this as cheap as possible without breaking backwards compatibility – they had to introduce a new row of conductors buried inside the A connector and straddling on the side of the various types of B connectors creating cable-compatibility issues – i.e. the USB 3.0 B-connectors will not mate with USB 1.1/2.0 B-sockets

It’s a small price to pay for a drastic increase in performance – no longer are we restricted to seeing rates of 35MB/s and below (sometimes quite significantly lower) when talking to external USB hard drives – we can now attain sequential rates limited by the spinning media in such drives even without UASP – and with UASP to overcome problems with command latency and lack of queueing in the older Bulk-only Transport mode of mass storage, performance improves even more!

But there was always one thing nagging me – while USB 3.0 is obviously great, and the host ports are backward compatible down to USB 2.0 and 1.1, USB 3.0 ports are always rather scarce! I guess we can put this down to cost cutting on behalf of the chipset makers and motherboard manufacturers – high speed USB 3.0 PHYs were not easy to make cheaply, at least initially. But now more USB 3.0 devices can be had at reasonable costs – sometimes even at the same prices as their USB 2.0 bretheren – doesn’t it make sense to have more ports?

To hub, or not to hub?

Before I actually review the device in question – we should probably review whether having a hub is a good idea in the first place.

It’s probably something not often practiced – but you can solve the lack of ports issue with a PCI-E to USB 3.0 adapter. These can be had for about $12 a piece, and if you have free PCI-e x1 slots, it’s definitely a possibility. Unfortunately, these cards usually only offer rear ports, and only two ports – but there’s a big advantage.

A separate controller means a separate USB 3.0 bus! This means stuff attached to the other USB 3.0 ports are not sharing the bus bandwidth. Copying from external drive to external drive can be speeded up quite a bit by attaching them to separate buses – and I practiced this on USB 2.0 quite often – resulting in copies running at 28MB/s rather than a lowly 13MB/s (if attached to the same bus).

Now that you know this “secret” – maybe a hub isn’t the thing for you. If throughput is what matters, look into getting more controllers first!

The other issue is that low quality hubs can often wreak havoc with compatibility with some devices, causing drop outs or “This device can perform faster if attached to a … port” messages. And the bandwidth is shared – so it’s more a convenience thing of not having to plug and unplug devices and being able to address more devices simultaneously.

Also note that bus-powered hubs will often cause problems with devices which are not self powered – as the cable length and traces will cause voltage drop due to resistance – so attaching drives to bus powered hubs is a definitely no-no. Voltage drop will also occur over the back-feed prevention diode (which is sometimes omitted in cheaper hubs).

A self-powered hub (one with a transformer) should be used in this case – but a low quality power supply or poor design of the hub can cause strange device issues or even power back feed issues as well.

In light of this, finding a good hub is important for the reliability of the connection of devices attached to it. But often, good quality hubs can’t be found just by looking at them – some controllers are more tolerant of some timing problems than others. Other hubs can be let down by simple things like poor soldering and poor quality connectors which cause intermittent USB connection.

Hubs can also have an impact on the performance of your older USB 1.1 devices as well. This is because USB 2.0 and 3.0 hubs run a high speed link between the upstream hub/controller and the hub and rely on units called Transaction Translators (TT’s) inside the hub to translate the High Speed (split) transactions into Full Speed packets for USB 1.1 devices. A hub with individual TT’s for each port will essentially give each port’s USB 1.1 bus the full USB 1.1 bandwidth – so older devices can perform to the best of their ability. Some earlier hubs shared one TT amongst all ports to save cost – and on the rationale that older USB 1.1 devices are dwindling in popularity and are unlikely to be connected in large numbers to the hub. Each to their own, I suppose.

The hub in question

The hub in question was purchased from eBay – and seems to be quite popular around eBay. Cost was around $12, and it is a 4-port USB 3.0 hub with a cable. It is bus powered with provision for self-powering, but it does not come with a power supply. Knowing what the quality of some Chinese unbranded power supplies are like – I’d say that might prove to be safer for your devices, but will exclude the possibility of running external hard drives from the hub.

Unbranded USB3.0 Hub

External Powering Provision

The hub features vertical connection which is rather interesting. The case is black plastic, and there is one LED to indicate the presence of power to the hub (bus or external jack). The plastic shell is held together screwless and gluelessly by internal plastic pins.

Brandless Rear

So lets open it up.


Taking a look at the PCB, it is already evident that this is a USB 3.0 hub enabled by a Genesys Logic GL3520 USB 3.0 Hub controller with independent transaction translators. Good news, sort of – since Genesys Logic products seem to be fairly decent nowadays, but early on in the USB 1.1 era, I avoided Genesys Logic hubs due to reliability issues.

Chingis SPI Flash

We also see a Chingis Technology Corporation Pm25ld512 SPI Flash which likely holds the configuration information for the hub. There is also an inductor and a small ChongX capacitor which appears to filter the incoming power – although the capacitor itself is from a questionable manufacturer and seems a bit small for the job. Notably absent are any polyfuses or current measuring shunts – so there is no port over-power protection by the looks of it. But there is an external power backflow prevention diode, and what appears to be a transistor to switch between bus and external power.

There is a QC/warranty sticker sitting over the silkscreen PCB job identifier – so I went ahead and removed it, but am none the wiser as to who is the OEM for this product.

Silkscreen Job Code

Turning the PCB over – we can see a half decent soldering job with most important pins soldered on well. Unfortunately, it looks like one side of the shell wasn’t soldered down on all ports – it would be wise to solder it down as it provides additional mechanical reinforcement to the ports. Aside from that, there were a few small solder splashes, but I removed the loose solder by hand before taking the photo.

PCB Underside

Plugging it in, I found it was functional and identified itself as follows –

  • VID 05E3 PID 0610 USB2.0 Hub
  • VID 05E3 PID 0612 USB3.0 Hub

This would be expected since USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 are “separated” stack wise, so it’s presenting as two hubs. Self-powered and even low-power devices like USB 3.0 card readers operate flawlessly off the hub – but devices which are a bit more power hungry like my SSD in a box fail to operate properly. Just as expected.


For the price, one cannot complain about it. It does work, although it could do with proper port overcurrent limiting, although this is only a minor safety concern when not powered with external power. The physical construction feels appropriate for the price, although the soldering could do with some help. It does have a backfeed prevention diode, which is good, and it does work with my USB 3.0 ports for low-current-draw devices or self-powered devices. Just don’t expect to power hard drives or DVD writers from it.

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14 Responses to Quick Review: Cheap Unbranded 4-port USB 3.0 Hub from eBay

  1. Vitor says:

    Hey there, I have this same kind of hub with GL3520 chipset.

    When I connect anything USB 3.0 on it, the device goes to the PID 0610 of the usb hub. So it becomes usb 2.0 instead of 3.0.

    Do you have this kind of problem?
    I’m always getting this device can perform faster and it’s a pain in the ass to get usb 3.0 speeds here.

    • lui_gough says:

      Of the two hubs I have, I haven’t had this issue when attaching any of my external hard disks or card readers. I mostly use the hubs with the Renesas/NEC chipset – maybe there could be compatibility issues with it, but more likely is that you may have a dud hub. It could be the case that the crystal oscillator responsible for the signal timing is out of specification (or very close to the limits), causing the issue, or otherwise the extra USB 3.0 contact pins aren’t making complete contact. You can try switching cables, and ensuring you push the cable in all the way. If it still doesn’tmwork, I would chalk it up to an incompatibility probably due to a bordeline crystal.

  2. Udi says:

    I also have a GL3520 based Hub, and had many troubles getting USB 3 speeds.
    It turned out I had an ancient Renesas 3.0 driver for my USB3 host controller.
    After updating to a more recent version, things started working better.

    At first I thought the old driver caused the hub to enumerate on the wrong controller, but after reading your explanation about the HW appearing as two separate hubs, I realized it simply mapped as a USB2 hub on the USB2 hub tree of the same Renesas controller to which it was hooked up.

    After upgrading the driver, the Hub is now recognized as a USB 3 device and maps to the USB 3 host controller tree as a USB3 HUB.

    BTW, Microsoft’s USBview utility is pretty useful.

  3. Reinhard says:

    i have a similar usb 3.0 with the same gl3520 chipset but switches for each port.

    my problem is: usb 3.0 devices are working properly, after i changed the usb 3.0 cable of the hub with a good one.
    but connected usb 2.0 devices are limited to 1 mb/s full speed, no high speed transfer is possible.

    usb 2.0 devices work in usb 1.0 mode only. very sad.

    a firmware update seems to be available. i found an gl3520 updater, which made even more trouble..

    • lui_gough says:

      You may have a compatibility issue with your USB3 controller (see if there are any driver or firmware update for it) or just an unlucky, poorly manufactured unit (with possibly a marginal timing crystal). Unfortunate, but it happens. For the record, all three of mine are operating all speeds just fine attached to Intel or Renesas/NEC USB3 ports.

    • Hunger says:

      Such hub and such problem. USB 3.0 devices works after replacing cable. USB 2.0 works at speed 1 Mb/s.

  4. Geimei says:

    I try to separate shell cover using penis, now very sore. Still does not work.

  5. Angel G. says:

    ThanX for the good review – I always like to see the PCB and chips inside.
    I have device 05e3:0616 7-port USB3.0 ext.powered, cheap Hub with 2x 4-port chips connected inside. It works OK with 480Mb/s ext.HDD.
    With 5Gb/s HDD, my large file transfers sometimes abort (Ubuntu14.04). I’m not sure that it`s the hub, still trying to nail down the problem. The host controller is NEC/Renesas, the HDD is WD black series (512 byte sectors) inside USB3.0 enclosure from Trancend (the original HDD was Samsung, which I uh/oh! dropped from 1 meter). So it could be enclosure/HDD compatibility issue. Since the GenesysLogic usb3.0 chips are tested to work, what left is eventually PSU, filtering, impedance matching…

  6. Kiriakos Triantafillou says:

    I am convinced that this specific gadget it is USB 2.0 speaking of output ports, and only input this is somewhat USB 3.0 compatible so this to feed USB 2.0 ports at high bandwidth.
    Possible I am the only one with eyes and able to see that output ports are plain USB 2.0 connector with just four pins.

    Do not waste your time with downloads and hardware inspection, some one in China aiming to rip-off people by selling a gadget this coming with allot fake advertising.
    If you are smart and quick, just request full refund from the Ebay shop that you got it from.

    USB\vid_05e3&Pid_0610 Rev_9223

  7. I'm affraid to say who I am says:

    If you hub stays USB2.0 on usb3 bus, then you should check whether there is a SPI Flash chip soldered on the PCB. 512 Kbit is pretty enough for this hub, chip is 25LD512 or compatible. If you have the flash, then there is a leaked firmware upgrade tool, which may fix the problem. Beware that everything working with firmware can contain viruses inside….

    • Kiriakos Triantafillou says:

      Thank you for this tecnical tip.
      What is my advice to all people in such situations, this is to avoid fiddling with firmware updates, because this will turn in to a brick any copycat produced chip.
      Therefore from consumer point of view, it is best to keep this toy as is and to buy a branded and reliable USB 3.0 hub for serious work.

      • Tet Yoon Lee says:

        Your comment doesn’t make much sense. If your cheap hub isn’t working properly and you brick it, who cares? The whole point is it’s a cheap hub and it’s not working properly so it doesn’t matter so much if it breaks. I mean you could keep it and use it as a USB2.0 hub, but what for?

        Further if you do this when you first bought the hub, then if it bricks you can just report it as dead to the vendor and ask for a refund or replacement. It’s better than trying to convince them it’s not working properly because it’s stuck on USB2. OTOH if you upgrade it and it now works properly. you now have a working hub. You can still call it a toy if you want, but it’s a better toy than it was.

        Incidentally, the reason I’m looking for a new USB 3.0 hub is because my ‘branded and reliable’ USB 3.0 hub died. Sure I was offered a refund. But because I don’t live in the US, not a replacement. I can order another off Amazon but I will have to pay for shipping so it’s not free. Sure I could have ordered one locally but then instead of paying 3x for the ‘branded and reliable’ hub I’d be paying 10x or more.

        ‘Branded and reliable’ hubs (as with many products) are generally better and have better long term support made but they are very often using the same chips as the cheap ones and particularly if you live outside the US or Western Europe, the support isn’t that much better and they can be quite expensive.

        You do have to be careful when buying off eBay or AliExpress but if you’re smart you can get acceptable products. (For example, regarding point above about pin count, well even if you don’t look at the pin count a basic thing to check when you get a USB3.0 hub is to make sure you’re actually getting USB3.0 speeds, and on all ports.)

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